When is the point where you know that you've officially moved somewhere (if temporarily)? Is it when the locals stop laughing at your Arabic? Is it when you walk with enough savoir-faire that passing cars don't honk at you for being foreign? Or perhaps it's when you succeed in learning what your bus stop is called without having to ask someone - I managed it, all by my own.
One of my favourite photos so far - Rainbow Street nr. 1st Circle.
I was recently reassured about my own Arabic by a (new! - check me out) friend who works at the British Embassy, speaking Arabic every day. Apparently, non-natives speaking Arabic never cease to be a novelty to local residents and we will continue to be met with the occasional blank stare and/or guffaw well into the future. The best type of this interaction usually occurs in taxis, where some of the more friendly drivers get joyously excited at these clever chimpanzee-like foreigners who have indeed managed to achieve the human equivalent of typing out the works of Shakespeare (I apologise to those who are not familiar with this analogy). The less savoury of these exchanges takes place when trying to negotiate with the minority of drivers who might try to use your foreignness against you, sometimes attempting to greatly overcharge you and then pretending that they don't understand when you try to protest. Nevertheless, such incidents are rare and only occur if you have been careless enough to take a taxi who's meter either does not exist or does not work. It's therefore a case of more fool you (er, well..me).
When it comes to cars honking when passing, it must be first clarified that this is a very normal occurrence in Amman. A good starting reference would be our very own Highway Code:
Rule 112. The horn. Use only while your vehicle is moving and you need to warn other road users of your presence. Never sound your horn aggressively.
It must be said that the residents appear to believe that other road users should be in a state of permanent warnèdness concerning the presence of other road users, a somewhat defendable trait given the total lack of any respect for vehicle lanes. If a taxi thinks you need a ride they will hoot at you to signal that they are available, the same goes for passing buses. These are all very understandable uses of the horn. In contrast, the use of the horn to catch the foreigner's attention before you yell something at them in English (these range from friendly (yet still fairly uncalled for) greetings for the majority, to the occasional obscenity). While most of this practise is completely harmless it can become a bit trying after you've been scared the **** out of for the fourth time in one journey - and I hate to think what it's like for the girls, who have cars that will slow down to keep pace with them walking along the street. I'll take British unsociable road practices any time.
Uptown trunk - sorry. (For those older readers, don't worry).
In other news (end of whining you'll be pleased to hear), I have (some might say predictably) joined not one, but two choirs here in Amman. One sings repertoire with which I am very familiar (Anglican Christmas tradition) and it is very comfortable and reassuring to have that side of my interests continue whilst out here. The other choir is a group that consists largely of Jordanians and sings much of its music in Arabic. I was very flattered to be made a section leader of Dozan wa Awtar Singers (for such is its name) but it was with no small trepidation that I realised this meant I had to run a sectional every week. Every week...running sectionals...in a choir largely comprised of native arabic speakers...speaking very basic colloquial Arabic...it was an interesting epiphany. I was/am very lucky however, many of my section (4 of the 7 or so singers) are native English speakers so I can justify (to myself at least) running the sectional as an expat hive of manly bass activity - just imagine, now stop before you hurt yourself.
That's all from me for now :) I think Clara is going to write something about her first experience of work in Amman which I know will make for an hilarious read - stay chooned. Xx
Sunset from near the University - Taken on a cabin-fever induced walk I took after staying inside for too long one Friday.